Cruz del Sur

Reading other blogs about travel in Peru, there seemed to be two main ways to get from Lima to Cusco, both scary. First, you can take a small plane directly over the Andes. The cheapest native airline isn´t recommended for Americans (by the US government) since it lacks several safety measures and doesn´t carry adequate insurance. We read the account of an adventurous traveller who reported that the seats are folding metal chairs bolted to the cabin deck. Even the safe airlines are universally described as quite turbulent, however.



The second way to get to Cusco is by bus. Once again, there are very cheap buses of questionable safety, but two companies that everyone recommends as very reliable. We´d read conflicting reports about the buses. Some people seemed worried that it was common for them to crash. Others thought that robberies were common. Other accounts said they´re totally fine and nothing whatsoever to be worried about.



For $50 apiece we booked with the bus company Cruz del Sur for a 21-hour bus ride from about 5:30 pm to 2:30 the next day. Their pamphlet boasted the following safety measures:

-Two drivers who switch off every 4 hours

- Real-time 24-hour GPS monitoring of all buses. Any unscheduled stops or route changes are reported directly to local police.

- Id verification of all passengers, plus videos of each passenger taking their seat before departing, and leaving the bus upon arrival.



Some of this seemed to be more security theater than actual security, but we particularly liked the point about having two drivers. After having seen the roads, I am now quite sure that was a good idea.



The amenities of their buses included:

- Two meals (with a vegetarian option!)

- Seats that recline 160-degrees

- Two bathrooms

- (too many) movies

- BINGO, with the prize of winning a return ticket (sadly, we did not win, though it was fun to play)



Our overall asesment was: Cruz del Sur is nothing to worry about, unless your concern is being confined to a bus on a very windy road for 21 hours, in which case your concerns are thoroughly justified.



Since we left at about dusk, there was nothing to see out the windows, so we watched their amusing tourist videos about Cusco. My favorite part was the chef of an upscale restaurant explaining his signature dish, which looked like a small circular fort of sculpted mashed potato in the middle a large white plate liberally sprinkled with red and green shreds of something. Or, as he put it, ¨I call the dish, Papas Cusquenos. The two chili peppers represent the flames of hell......it also has mashed potatoes, butter, and paprika!¨. To be honest, most of the tourist advertisments horrified me and made me think I might have to turn around and go back to Lima.



We spent a fitful night being woken up by people going to and from the bathroom adjascent to our seats. Jen was also feeling a little sick in various ways and was pretty unhappy with the whole situation. The bus felt as if it were going a steady 20 mph or so. Out my window was only black night. On the other side of the bus I could see the pale base of a rough rock wall climbing past the reach of the buses lights.



By morning, our road was revealed to be wide enough for about 1.5 cars; hill on one side, precipice on the other. It really was an indescribable site--unphotographable as well, as it turned out. Though there were trucks and buses going in both directions, passing each other in ways I couldn´t fathom, all the drivers seemed to know what they were about, and we didn´t ever seem to be careening round corners or teetering over edges. It all felt very safe and controlled.

The most amazing part to me was seeing the small villages and farmsteads high up on the slopes of the Andes. It was quite common for us to pass a small flock of sheep or a few loose pigs on the side of the road. I also enjoyed seeing a community with no more than 10 buildings, all clustered around a barren-looking soccer field where the whole population had come to watch the children play a game.

Our arrival in Cusco was uneventful. We quickly found a taxi to our hotel, and booked a somewhat more modest room than our Lima accomodations, but quite clean and sufficient for our needs. We´re excited to have access to a small kitchen, so our next post will likely detail our adventures in the market buying vegetables for dinner!